This story really begins about 4 or 5 years ago, when I first learned about an island off of the southern coast of Kyushu called Yakushima. I heard stories of epic, almost prehistoric landscapes, enormous waterfalls carved into vast slabs of granite, gnarled trees thousands of years old, and the tallest mountains in all of Kyushu. I later found out that the forests of Yakushima were the inspiration for the location in my favorite Miyazaki Hayao film, Mononoke Hime (Princess Mononoke) and also that most of the island is a protected UNESCO World Natural Heritage site (which implies supreme awesomeness). As soon as I saw pictures of this place, it was a done deal:
Yakushima was now on the the no-question-must-see-list.
Yakushima was now on the the no-question-must-see-list.
satalite map of Japan with Yakushima marked
Fast forward 5 years (and two separate occasions of attempted and subsequently botched plans to visit this place) and I am invited to join a group headed for Yakushima during golden week, which is actually a conveniently placed string of 3 holidays (that can be wangled into a full week if you're crafty). Needless to say I was out of my brain excited.
mia modeling the found hat sporting the
phrase that came to epitomize our trip
We took the night bus from Kochi City to Fukuoka and then Kagoshima, where we would eventually catch the ferry for Yakushima. No sooner had we we stepped off the bus than we were greeted by Kagoshima's most excitable geologic formation, Sakurajima, doing a bit of exploding.
We were quite surprised to arrive to the sight of Sakurajima spewing a cloud of grey ash into the sky, and were even more surprised to find out that this is totally normal. As in multiple times a day. Whoa, nice place for a city, Kagoshima...
the trailhead of our three day trek up and over the top of Yakushima
Matt and one of the first big "Yakusugi",
the island's own species of giant cedar.
as yakushima is the wettest place in Japan,
many of these trees grow to enormous sizes
the island's own species of giant cedar.
as yakushima is the wettest place in Japan,
many of these trees grow to enormous sizes
Matt's boots
inside an enormous stump...
when it was cut down in 1586 to provide wood
for a temple in Kyoto (Hōkō-ji), this tree was about 3,000 years old
now, at chest level the inside hollow is about 4 meters across
when it was cut down in 1586 to provide wood
for a temple in Kyoto (Hōkō-ji), this tree was about 3,000 years old
now, at chest level the inside hollow is about 4 meters across
slowly climbing towards the summit
this is the Jomon Sugi,
the oldest and largest of the living Yakusugi
it stands about 80 ft tall and has a volume of approx. 10,000 cubic ft
its age is highly disputed, different people have estimated
anywhere from 2,000 to 7,000 years of age
the oldest and largest of the living Yakusugi
it stands about 80 ft tall and has a volume of approx. 10,000 cubic ft
its age is highly disputed, different people have estimated
anywhere from 2,000 to 7,000 years of age
our first view of the summit in the distance...
following the path winding us closer to the top
Miyanoura-dake summit panorama
happy people;
highest point in Kyushu
Mia and me at ze top
and then down the other side
Mia looking back toward the summit
slacklining...
the Yakushima drop-knee river dip
the Yakushima drop-knee river dip
With our hike complete we decided to rent a car and do a day trip around the island to see what we could see...
lotsa deer... everywhere
We were all having second thoughts when it was time to board the ferry and actually leave this magical place. Somehow we ended up on the ferry headed back to mainland Kyushu. We got off the ferry and headed out looking for a campsite relatively close to our next objective, Kaimondake.
morning view of Kaimondake from our beach campspot
Matt being one with the summit of Kaimondake
Shiba levitating over the summit of kaimondake
southern kyushu glorylands
We happened upon an old, abandoned restaurant. It was cool. And sorta creepy.
complete with falling in ceiling and dirty manga
the office
Truly a fantastic trip to some of the most amazing places I've ever been... many thanks to Matt, Mia, and Shiba for inviting me and making the trip so wild and awesome.
